The Power of Retinol: Why Vitamin A is important for your skin
Let’s talk about Retinol. It’s come up a lot in clinic lately, some clients worry they’ve left it too late to start using it, others are nervous about using it over the summer. And to be honest, when you’re spending £90 on a product and told to wait a few months to see a benefit, it’s worth understanding what it’s really doing for your skin and how it actually works.
So retinol is an active ingredient, which means it is actually, actively bringing change to your skin and how it functions. This is often, but not always, on a cellular level. So one of the reasons why it is such an expensive ingredient is because it is actually getting down to your skin cells, entering them, and bringing about change within them - so it’s serious stuff!
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, part of the broader retinoid family. And its main job is increasing cell turnover. Once retinol is absorbed into the skin, your body converts it into retinoic acid which is the active form that can affect how your skin cells behave. That includes how often they divide, how they mature into specialised types like keratinocytes or melanocytes, and how they clear out damaged or dysfunctional cells in a healthy, controlled way.
As we age, all these processes slow down or become a bit dysregulated. When you’re younger this process cycles over a 28 day period, and this slows down as we age and can reach up to 90 days per cycle which really contributes to visible signs of ageing like fine lines, uneven tone and dullness.
Retinoids also help protect your collagen by blocking the enzymes that break it down, and retinoic acid can actually stimulate new collagen production. They’re also antioxidants, neutralising free radicals that damage skin cells and accelerate ageing.
Retinol can also help with pigmentation by inhibiting an enzyme called tyrosinase which is responsible for melanin production, and it also slows the transfer of melanin to skin cells. But more importantly it can help and support ingredients like arbutin or kojic acid which are the heavy hitters when it comes to tackling pigmentation.
It’s also amazing for congested skin by helping to clear out pores and reduce breakouts through its exfoliating properties, as well being an anti-Inflammatory which in turn can calm active acne.
You can also support your Vitamin A levels from within. Foods like cheese, eggs, and oily fish contain retinol directly, while colourful veg like carrots, spinach, sweet potatoes, red peppers, and mango are rich in beta-carotene, which your body can convert into Vitamin A. But don’t overdo it, especially if you’re already taking supplements. Too much Vitamin A, especially from pills rather than food, can be harmful, particularly for women post-menopause who may be at higher risk of osteoporosis.
A few golden rules:
Use it at night only as sunlight breaks it down and can make your skin more sensitive.
SPF during the day is non-negotiable. Retinol speeds up skin renewal, which means newer, more delicate skin needs more protection.
I always say: Start low and go slow. Begin with a low strength like a .25 once a week, or apply it over your moisturiser to buffer it. Let your skin adjust over time. This is something you’ll use for decades, so there’s no need to rush.
And finally, if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, retinoids are off the table. Just hit pause for now and revisit them later.
So yes, Retinol can be incredible for your skin, but it is a powerful active and one you don’t want to mess around or waste money on with so make sure you’re doing your research and talking to an expert. Book yourself in for a skin consultation with me today so that we can start you on your retinol journey.
